The rise of e-file manicures
Alina Huck, a Sydney-based nail technician, keeps a drill that spins at 35,000 revolutions per minute on her work station. The drill bit, the length of an almond, makes contact with a client's nail and whips up a fine dust of dead skin. This is the tool at the heart of an e-file manicure, also known as a Russian manicure, a technique that has seen a surge in demand over the past year. Huck, who has nearly a decade of experience in the specialty, says more clients are requesting the once-niche treatment.
What makes e-file manicures different
Unlike traditional gel manicures, e-file manicures involve the complete removal of the cuticle. The drill lifts the cuticle and removes any skin on the nail plate beneath, allowing polish to be applied close to the base for a longer-lasting result. Global Google searches for “Russian manicure” have risen steadily since 2020, with searches peaking last month. On TikTok, the hashtag #russianmanicure has over 250,000 videos, some showing dramatic before-and-after transformations that have clocked more than 200,000 views.
Linda Vasquez, a disability accommodation services manager, travels an hour from Wollongong to her nail technician’s salon in Penshurst, Sydney, for the service. She says e-file manicures last up to five weeks, compared to two weeks for regular gel manis, and better withstand the “wear and tear” of her job. Huck says when she migrated from Kazakhstan to Sydney in 2017, most of her e-file clients were from eastern Europe, but now she has a strong local clientele, with some traveling from as far as Perth. She opened her current salon in 2021 and employs three full-time staff, all specialists in e-file manicures.
The cost of perfection
The longevity comes at a price: e-file manicures cost between $100 and $150 in Australia, roughly double that of a gel manicure. “It’s treated more as a craft … rather than a quick service,” says Sydney nail technician Salina Basnet. As clients tighten household budgets, they demand higher standards, says Christina Anthony, a marketing lecturer and consumer psychologist at the University of Sydney. “To justify the financial cost, you want good results.” Affordable luxuries like specialized beauty treatments offer a sense of control and comfort during uncertain times, she explains. “We use consumption for emotion regulation.”
Match context
The trend reflects broader shifts in consumer behavior. Samantha Elliott, owner of Seir Beauty School in Sydney, links the trend to social media’s appetite for “immaculate” nail plates. Enrolments in Seir’s Russian manicure short course rose 30% in the last year, she says. “Clients are requesting more and more of a flawless finish.” Meg Elkins, associate professor in economics at RMIT, notes the psychological value: “If your nails are on you’re always elevated – you might not have your face on, you might not have your hair done but your nails are always on.” For Mariya Hull, a sales representative, a fresh set of nails is a “mood booster” – “like little art on my nails,” she says. But the trend also raises concerns about safety.
Risks and training gaps
Both Basnet and Huck acknowledge that e-file manicures can be risky without adequate training. “A lot can go wrong if it’s not done properly,” says Basnet. When Vasquez’s regular nail technician went on holiday, she tried another salon and experienced issues. The drill can damage the nail bed or cause infections if used incorrectly. While the technique originated in eastern Europe and has a dedicated following, its growing popularity in Australia means more technicians are offering it, but not all have the specialized training required, the experts caution.
Road ahead
As demand for e-file manicures continues to climb, the industry faces a challenge: meeting the desire for flawless, long-lasting nails while ensuring safety. Huck has noticed a “big change” in the industry, with more technicians providing the service. Seir Beauty School’s rising enrolments suggest that training is becoming more accessible, but the gap between supply and properly trained professionals remains. For clients like Vasquez, the search for a skilled technician is worth the travel. The future of e-file manicures will depend on balancing popularity with professionalism.
Report based on information from The Guardian.
